It's hard to find a soothing palette of beige and cream, much less one whose walls are adorned with whimsical, painting-size "cutouts"; whose backlit bar is simultaneously sleek, warm and inviting; and whose food doesn't allow the design to do all the work. But there's one place. Heirloom is Lexington's small-town neighbor with seriously sophisticated cuisine. Owned by chef Mark Wombles and his father, Henry, the restaurant came out of the gate in 2006 to acclaim. Its standard has remained high, with only occasional slips. Now, however, with Nicolas True blood — formerly of The Mansion at Griffin Gate — as chef de cuisine, Mark Wombles' original vision of using fresh, local ingredients to create Kentucky dishes with a global sensibility and a hint of California influence is being met and exalted.
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