This wildly popular El Camino eatery just south of Showers Drive is sister to the Yuans' longtime place in San Francisco's Chinatown. It is homey and comfortable, but crowded, especially at lunchtime, when groups of workers converge here. It has all the spicy Hunan favorites plus many seafood specials, such as fish or shellfish cooked in spicy salt; check the chalkboard and/or the aquarium in the lobby for the day's offerings. You control the spiciness -- just ask your server. Lunchtime reservations are essential.